Rotary Polisher

High-Speed/Rotary Polisher

 

The backing plate of a simple rotary polisher (often called a “high-speed polisher”) does just what the name implies—it simply spins round and round about a center point.  If the machine is held in the same place for more than a few seconds, the spinning motion of the buffer pad against the paint surface of the vehicle causes friction and heat build-up.  It is this heat and friction that gives the simple rotary machine its greatest advantages and at the same time its greatest potential for harmful results.

 

Rotary polishers have traditionally been called “high-speed” because in the old days (and, in some cases, even now), these machines were run at upwards of 3000 rpm.  In contrast, most modern users of this technology run the machines at much lower speeds, perhaps between 600-1000 rpm.  There is a great variance in preferences and opinions about speed, but the majority of detailing professionals using rotary polishers generally follow the rule “slower is better.”

 

We can utilize the friction created by the simple rotary machine at lower speeds to polish out imperfections and sub-surface damage in the paint.  We can utilize the heat created by the same machine set at higher speeds to burnish the paint surface.  “Burnishing” refers to the act of heating up the paint surface so that it can be “worked” into a high gloss.

 

At the same time that the simple rotary polisher good impact on the paint, it can, if used incorrectly, have bad impact on the paint.  The most common problems include “burning” the paint, swirl marks, and excessive paint removal.  Burning refers actually to the act of heating the paint so hot that it melts.  The typical appearance of this is a “folding over” of the paint onto itself in small areas, kind of making the paint look like it was wiped while still wet. 

 

With incorrect use of a rotary polisher, paint can also be removed, most commonly from the edges and high contour points of a painted panel.  This usually happens when the pad of the buffer is allowed to work over the contour or edge for too long or while heavy pressure is being applied to the machine.  With the friction generated by the continuous spinning motion of the pad, it doesn’t take long for the paint to wear away.

 

Since the motion of a high-speed polisher is simple rotary, a number of things can go wrong during use, yielding swirl marks, which are concentric arcs or circles of micro-scratches left by the pad of a simple rotary polisher.  Perhaps the pad or chemical being used is too aggressive, or even just the motion that the technician uses while moving the machine across the surface of the vehicle.  The way to reduce swirl marks is to learn how to use the machine correctly and to learn how to combine pads and chemicals to yield a shiny paint surface with a minimum of swirls left behind.

 

The simple rotary polisher, when used correctly, is great for heavy paint defect removal in a relatively fast manner.  Some technicians like to begin heavy paint correction projects with a simple rotary polisher and then continue fine polishing with random-orbit or dual-action polishers.
















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Application Charts

BUFFING FOAMS

Buffing and polishing your car with foam pads has been around for many years.  Foam pads work allot differently than wool pads as far as cut, feel and performance.  There are many new technological advances in the foam pad industry and I am writing this to help give you more information so you are able to choose the correct foam for your next job.

There are many ways to identify foam pads in the industry.  PPI is a generic way of distinguishing foam, but not the 100% correct way.  Since there are so many ways to measure foam, we are going to start here with the basic.

OPEN CELL and CLOSED CELL

The first and basic thing to understand about foam is whether it is open or closed cell.  Many open cell foams start out as closed cell and are “reticulated” to produce open cell.  “Reticulation” is a process used in processing foam where they take the bun of foam, put in in a concrete and controlled room, fill the room with hydrogen so the foam can absorb it, and then they ignite the foam.  This process causes the membrane or window of the foam to wrap around the branches.  The window/membrane on foam is the transparent thin layer in between the branches.  The branch is what you feel by hand in the foam when you touch it.  If you look at foam under a microscope, you will see the branches and windows.  Foam that has been reticulated is open cell and foam no reticulated is closed cell.

Once you reticulate a foam it may become stronger in its tearing characteristics.  Reticulated or “open cell” foam run much cooler on the surface as compared to closed cell foams.  The reason for this is that with the cells being open, they are allowed to let air pass thru them to dissipate heat.  With this happening, there may be a chance the chemical you are working with may dry faster and possibly dust since the lubricant in it is getting dried with the air passing thru the foam.

 There are Pros and Cons to each of the foams, and each type works differently with all chemicals:

Keep in mind that not all foams work the same way with all chemicals.  In many instances, it can be trial and error.

There are many other ways foams are measured, this is just a starting point so you are able to pick the best foam for your project.

 

APPLICATION CHARTS ARE COARSES TO FINE

US FOAMS
WHITE 45 PPI HEAVY CUT
YELLOW 50 PPI MEDIUM CUT
GREEN 60 PPI POLISHING
BLUE 70 PPI  SOFT POLISHING
BLACK 80 PPI FINISHING
SOFT WHITE 90 PPI ULTRA FINISHING
BABY BLUE 100 PPI  FINAL FINISHING

EURO FOAMS
YELLOW HEAVY CUT
ORANGE MEDIUM CUT
WHITE POLISHING
BABY BLUE SOFT POLISHING
RED ULTIMATE FINISHING

EXTREME RETICULATED FOAMS
COARSE GREEN EXTREME CUT
COARSE ORANGE MEDIUM CUT
MAROON POLISHING
RED FINISHING

URO-TEC “OPEN CELL”
COARSE BLUE HEAVY CUT
MAROON MEDIUM CUT
YELLOW POLISHING
WHITE FINISHING

URO-CELL “CLOSED CELL”
LIGHT BLUE CUTTING
ORANGE POLISHING
RED FINISHING

STANDARD WOOL PADS
100% WOOL 4 PLY NATURAL CUTTING
WOOL BLEND SINGLE PLY NATURAL MEDIUM CUT
WOOL BLEND 4 PLY TWIST YELLOW MEDIUM CUT/POLISHING
WOOL BLEND SINGE PLY WHITE POLISHING
WOOL BLEND SINGLE PLY YELLOW POLISHING/FINISHING
KNITTED WOOL BLEND  LIGTH POLISH/FINISHING
KNITTED 100% WOOL NATURAL FINAL FINISHING

INDUSTRIAL WOOL PADS
ALTERNATE STITCH DUAL STRAND WOOL BLEND AGGRESSIVE CUTTING & LONG LASTING